What to Do in the Galápagos Islands? If you're looking for the answer to this question, our blog will help clear up some of your doubts about the Enchanted Islands.
Four days and $995 between the two of us. That's what Galápagos cost us on an independent trip, based on Santa Cruz Island, including flights, taxes, accommodation, meals and a snorkeling tour. And yes, four days go much further than we expected: giant tortoises, lava tunnels, snorkeling with baby sharks and one of the most beautiful beaches we've ever set foot on.
Galápagos had been on our list for years. It was the trip we'd wanted to take together for a long time, and in January 2024, taking advantage of being on a family holiday in Ecuador, we finally took the flight from Guayaquil.
We went without a cruise, staying in Puerto Ayora and planning each day as we went. We filmed a daily vlog on TikTok, so for each day we've included the video so you can see exactly what we saw.
📋 What You'll Find in This Post
How to Get to the Galápagos from Mainland Ecuador
Day 1: Los Gemelos, El Chato and the Giant Tortoises
Day 2: Playa de la Estación and the Charles Darwin Research Station
Day 3: Snorkeling at Pinzón Island and Sunset at Los Alemanes Beach
Day 4: Tortuga Bay, the Beach (Without Tortoises)
How Much Our 4 Days in the Galápagos Cost
Tips from Pedro & Karyna
Frequently Asked Questions
How to Get to the Galápagos from Mainland Ecuador
You can fly to the Galápagos from Quito or Guayaquil, and almost all flights land at Baltra, a small island right next to Santa Cruz. We flew from Guayaquil, and here's the first trick of the trip: we redeemed Diners Club miles, and our round-trip flights came to just $56 for the two of us. Without miles, expect to pay quite a bit more; it depends on the season, but it can be around $250-300 per person.
Before boarding, you have to pay the Transit Control Card (TCT), $20 per person, which can now be processed online before your flight. When you land at Baltra, there's the National Park fee. We paid $100 as foreigners, but be aware: since August 2024 it's $200 for foreigners and $30 for Ecuadorians.
From the airport we took a $5 bus to the Itabaca Channel, a $1 ferry across to Santa Cruz and, once on the other side, a taxi. As soon as we stepped off the plane, the first iguanas were already staring at us as if we were the strange ones.
We were off to a good start.
Day 1: Los Gemelos, El Chato and the Giant Tortoises
The taxi from the channel to Puerto Ayora was the best decision of the day. For $60, the taxi to the hotel included a tour of the island's highlands, so instead of arriving and unpacking, we went straight to Los Gemelos.
These are two huge craters that collapsed over empty magma chambers, surrounded by lush, green, humid forest that has nothing to do with the image of arid islands we had in our heads. We walked around the rim, spotting plants and birds, and then moved on.
The next stop was Rancho El Chato, the reserve where giant tortoises live in the wild. We put on the rubber boots they hand out at the entrance and went looking for them. We didn't have to search for long. They were everywhere, grazing, wading in pools or crossing our path with a calm that's contagious.
Here we learned that there are two main types of tortoise in the Galápagos: those from humid zones, with rounded shells, and those from dry zones, with saddle-shaped shells and longer necks to reach the cacti. Some live past 100 years. And yes, we saw a fight between two of them, in slow motion, which is the only speed at which tortoises fight.
Before leaving, we explored the ranch's lava tunnels, some tall enough to stand in and others where you had to crouch, with the marks left by lava rivers thousands of years ago. Entry to El Chato costs $10 for foreigners and $7 for Ecuadorians.
We ended the day strolling along the Puerto Ayora waterfront, exhausted and with a thousand photos of tortoises.
Day 2: Playa de la Estación and the Charles Darwin Research Station
The second day was calmer, and we were grateful for it. We started at Playa de la Estación, a small beach next to the Charles Darwin Station, to kill time before our tour. Red crabs on the black rocks, a marine iguana swimming in front of us and almost no one else around.
Afterward we entered the Charles Darwin Research Station with a guide ($10 per person). The guide explained that their main job is tortoise conservation: they raise the young from each island here and, once they're old enough, return them to the island they came from. The adults were not very active that day. Very not active. The babies, on the other hand, stole our hearts.
What struck us most was Lonesome George. He was the last member of the Pinta Island tortoise species, died in 2012 at over 100 years old, and is now preserved in an air-conditioned room that you need to acclimatize to before going in. Seeing the last of an entire species is powerful.
In the afternoon we returned to Puerto Ayora and met Mateo, a sea lion who was sleeping as contentedly on the pier as if the bench were his. It was. At night the pier is full of sea lions sprawled everywhere, and it's one of those things you have to see in the Galápagos, no question.
📱 The Puerto Ayora pier full of sea lions
For dinner we tried brujo, the typical fish of the islands, and we loved it.
Day 3: Snorkeling at Pinzón Island and Sunset at Los Alemanes Beach
This was the big day. We booked a snorkeling tour to Pinzón Island, an uninhabited island that can only be reached by boat, for $130 per person. They gave us wetsuits, life vests to keep us from sinking and a guide who was very good and kind. We asked for the vests ourselves because we didn't feel like "fish in water," so we decided to go with a little help.
The first stop was at La Fe and the second at Pinzón. Underwater we saw sea turtles, sea lions, baby sharks, manta rays and schools of fish visible even from the surface. Pedro also spent much of the snorkeling confronting his fears. And he managed it.
After snorkeling they served us lunch on the boat, we regained our strength and passed close to some islets full of sea lions sunbathing.
We returned to Puerto Ayora tired, but not tired enough to stay at the hotel. We took a water taxi to Los Alemanes Beach and ended the day with beers on the terrace of Santa Cruz Brewery, watching the sunset.
It was exactly what we needed.
Day 4: Tortuga Bay, the Beach (Without Tortoises)
Our last day was spent at Tortuga Bay, which has a reputation as one of the best beaches in the world. You reach it on foot from Puerto Ayora via a trail of about 2.5 kilometers through cacti. You have to register at the entrance, but there's no charge.
The beach is huge, with white, fine sand, and there are no beach bars, umbrellas or anything else. Just marine iguanas, birds and the sea. It's divided into two parts: Playa Brava, with strong waves and currents where swimming isn't advisable, and Playa Mansa, farther on, with calm water. At Playa Mansa we saw whitetip reef sharks very close to the shore and our first blue-footed booby.
Tortoises at Tortuga Bay? Not a single one. The name promises more than it delivers, but the beach more than makes up for it.
The walk back, though, was under a brutal sun. In the afternoon we bought a few souvenirs, had hamburgers for our last dinner of the trip and took one final stroll along the pier to say goodbye to the sea lions. The next morning we were already in Baltra, heading back to mainland Ecuador.
How Much Our 4 Days in the Galápagos Cost
In total, $995 for the two of us for four days. The biggest expenses were the snorkeling tour ($260 for both of us), accommodation ($180 for four nights) and entrance fees. We spent around $30 a day on food, and all the beaches were free.
Two things helped us keep costs so low: flights with miles and the fact that Pedro, as an Ecuadorian, pays the domestic rates. If you go as two foreigners and pay for flights, do the math with the current fee of $200 per person.
Still, it's the most affordable way to experience the Galápagos. A five-night cruise starts at around $2,200 per person.
💡 Tips from Pedro & Karyna
💰 Our Real Breakdown (January 2024) Round-trip flights: $56 for both of us (with miles). TCT: $20 per person. National Park fee: $100 foreigners / $7.50 Ecuadorians (now $200 / $30). Bus + ferry from Baltra: $6 per person. Taxi with a tour of Los Gemelos and El Chato: $60. El Chato: $10 / $7. Accommodation: $180 for four nights. Charles Darwin Station: $10 per person. Food: around $30 a day. Snorkeling at Pinzón: $130 per person.
🛬 Before You Fly Process the TCT online before heading to the airport and carry your return ticket with you, as they ask for it. The National Park fee is paid when you land at Baltra, so bring cash in US dollars.
🚕 The Taxi That Doubles as a Tour When leaving the Itabaca Channel, negotiate with the driver to take you to Los Gemelos and El Chato on the way to Puerto Ayora. You'll save a whole day and an organized tour.
🤿 Snorkeling The Pinzón tour was the best part of the trip, and we'd do it again. If the water intimidates you, tell your guide before you start: with a life vest and wetsuit, you float effortlessly.
☀️ Tortuga Bay Go early in the morning and head back before noon. There's no shade along the entire trail and nothing to buy at the beach, so bring plenty of water and sunscreen.
🏨 Where to Stay Puerto Ayora is the best base: tours, water taxis and the trail to Tortuga Bay all leave from here. We stayed at [NAME OF ACCOMMODATION].
❓ Frequently Asked Questions
How many days do you need to explore the Galápagos? With 4 days on Santa Cruz you can see the giant tortoises, the Charles Darwin Station and Tortuga Bay, and fit in a snorkeling tour. To add other inhabited islands, such as Isabela or San Cristóbal, plan for 7 to 10 days.
How much does a trip to the Galápagos cost? It cost us $995 for the two of us over 4 days, with flights paid with miles and domestic rates for Pedro. Today, for two foreigners, you need to add $400 in National Park fees alone, plus flights.
Can you visit the Galápagos independently, without a cruise? Yes. We stayed in Puerto Ayora and booked tours right there. It's a lot cheaper than a cruise, and you see a huge amount of wildlife.
How much does it cost to enter the Charles Darwin Station? We paid $10 per person for the guided visit, which includes seeing Lonesome George.
Is the snorkeling tour to Pinzón Island worth it? For us, yes. We saw sea turtles, sea lions, baby sharks and manta rays, and the guide was one of the best parts of the trip. It cost us $130 per person, with lunch included.
Is entry to Tortuga Bay free? Yes, you just need to check in at the control point at the start of the trail. It's about a 2.5 km walk from Puerto Ayora.
If you're heading to the Galápagos, you'll probably pass through Quito or Guayaquil first. You can check out our guide to Quito in a weekend, the 8 things to do in Cuenca and our full route through Cuenca, the Amazon and Quilotoa to complete the trip through Ecuador.
👉 And if you want to see more of our trip, follow us on TikTok (@karynandpedro) and Instagram (@pedroandkaryna).
Have you been to the Galápagos or are you thinking about going? Do you think what we spent was expensive or cheap? Tell us in the comments 👇
